ESAKI-SMITH: As China modernizes, are the Chinese starting to eat differently?

YAN: In China, the lifestyle is changing. A lot of young couples live in apartments by themselves, without three or four generations living with them, so they probably want to learn to cook something simple. With two-income families in China, the whole society structure has changed. So I think the Chinese are ready for an educational, family-cooking program. There are also things that have all of a sudden become accepted because the Chinese are traveling a lot more than before, and have become a lot more open because of the market economy. For example, the Chinese never liked cheese. Now they’ve got Pizza Hut and it’s all cheese.

So do you think the Chinese will be receptive to drinking Western wine when eating Chinese food?

China has no history of matching wine with the protein. In the West, there’s one main course. In China, we eat family style, people sharing more than one main dish. A banquet could be eight to 12 courses. You can have a white wine with steamed shrimp because it’s light. Or if you have the same shrimp and make it kung pao you can match it with a red wine because it’s heavier. You can also create contrast, like yin and yang. Chinese food has such a long history and is such an art form. The same goes for wine-making and -drinking in Western culture. I think if we can somehow marry them, put them together and match them, we would have something.

Whom are you targeting?

We are looking at people who are willing to shell out maybe 200 to 300 renminbi [$24 to $36] to buy a bottle of wine. And there are people with money in China. Look at how many expensive cars there are. I don’t consider this impossible–it just takes time.

As China opens up, is its food also evolving?

People are a little bored by local tastes. Why do people like KFC here? Because it’s exciting, the management is good, and because of the cleanliness. People are expecting a lot more than just food nowadays. But the philosophy of Chinese food will not change; the yin and yang, everything contrasting yet in perfect harmony. In a Chinese menu, you see a procession of things, the light and the rich, the bright color and light color, the stir-fry and the deep-fry. It’s all contrasting, but it looks perfect.

Why are the Chinese traditionally obsessed with food?

It’s not just the Chinese who are obsessed. All Asians are. Go to Singapore, go to Malaysia, go to Thailand–the restaurants there are packed at 2 in the morning. The lifestyle in North America is to entertain at home or–because it’s less densely populated there–to go out picnicking or hiking. But Asia is so densely populated that the only form of entertainment is to go out and eat. Food has always been an important part of China; poets and scholars were always talking about food. There aren’t enough playgrounds and parks in Asian countries, so people don’t get enough exercise. They think they can improve longevity through food.

Considering that you’ve been living in the United States for a while, how would you describe your approach to Chinese cooking?

It’s not traditionally presented. I garnish a dish using a different platter, like a Japanese square or triangle platter. That has nothing to do with alteration of a cuisine, it’s just more contemporary. I don’t change basic philosophy or basic preparation technique. The way I cut, the way I marinate, the way I cook, it’s still very much the way they’ve done it for hundreds or even thousands of years. What classifies a cuisine is basic flavor, the way it is prepared and flavored. As long as I don’t change some of those things, I still maintain the cuisine’s integrity.

Have you also altered Western recipes when demonstrating them to the Chinese?

I’ve made meatloaf lighter by using tofu and water chestnuts. But generally, I just try the best I can and people appreciate what I do, whether it’s cooking with less oil or making it less gooey or more contemporary.

How would you rate your skills as a chef?

I don’t want to give the impression that I’m even remotely the best chef. I left China because there are so many good chefs. I couldn’t get a job as a chef. I’m not the best chef, by far. I’m an ambassador of culture.